Used Car Inspection Checklist

Start outside in good daylight. Walk around the car looking along each panel for uneven paint, mismatched shades, overspray on rubber seals, or ripples that hint at accident repair. Check that panel gaps are even, that the boot and bonnet close flush, and that the tyres wear evenly — uneven wear can signal suspension or alignment trouble. Open the bonnet cold: look for oil leaks, a milky film under the oil cap, corroded terminals and any recent, suspiciously clean patches that may hide a repair.

Inside, test every switch — windows, air-conditioning, indicators, wipers, central locking and the infotainment. Smell for damp, which can indicate past flooding, and lift the boot mat to check for rust or water lines. Then drive the car: listen for knocks over bumps, feel whether the gearbox shifts cleanly, and make sure it tracks straight and brakes without pulling. If anything feels off, budget for a workshop diagnosis before you commit.

A mechanically sound car with weak paperwork is still a bad buy. Match the chassis and engine numbers stamped on the car against the registration book, and confirm the seller’s name matches their CNIC. For Islamabad-registered cars, cross-check the details against the ICT Excise & Taxation record; for Rawalpindi and the rest of Punjab, verify through the Punjab Excise MTMIS system before you hand over money.

Ask whether token tax is paid up to date and request the last receipt, as unpaid dues transfer to you. If the car is on an “open letter” rather than a completed transfer, treat that as a red flag and read our open-letter guide first. When possible, bring an experienced mechanic or use a showroom that arranges an independent inspection — a small fee now is far cheaper than a hidden fault later.